ELIZABETHAN KIRTLE TUTORIAL: UPDATE 2026

UPDATE:  I'm updating this post because over the years I learned a lot by trial and error, and discovered better products. 

I no longer use the same products I demonstrated in this post (prior to the update) when I wrote it back in 2016. For instance, I stopped using Pellon inner facing. It dehisces over time and twists inside the bodice. I found a better product made of fusible cotton rather than Pellon - which is petroleum based and contributes to overheating. 

Also, I absolutely do NOT recommend metal stays!! Not only are they not period, but they are also horrifically uncomfortable and absolutely unnecessary for proper support. I use commercial zip ties. They are thicker than the expensive faux baleen and work well even for plus-sizes.  

CLASS DESCRIPTION:  

16th Century Working Class Kirtle (bodice, pinner sleeves, and knife-pleated skirt) for renaissance reenactors. 

My first on-line kirtle class dropped on February 20, 2026 on Patreon. You don't need a membership, just pay the fee for the class. 

Regularly $117 - NOW FOR LIMITED TIME $39.99

PATTERN:  I will teach you how to draft your own individual bodice pattern so that you don't have to wrestle with a commercial pattern. 

SUPPLIES: See list of supplies in the class: 

CLASS LINK:  Late 16th Century Kirtle Class (Renfaire Costume) | Patreon

History of the Kirtle:  

The kirtle was worn by both lower and middle-class women as an all-purpose, utilitarian under gown. It was sleeveless and had a low, square neck, and either slipped over the head or laced up the sides, front, or back. Many were cut in a "V" at the back, with deeper armholes for ease of movement.

Kirtles, as with any outer garment, were typically made from wool. Linen was used primarily for smocks and shirts - not for outer clothing. However, since wool is more expensive than linen, and my work leans toward reenacting rather than living history, I tend to use it as a more economical option. 

The kirtle in the early Tudor period was a one-piece garment; i.e., the skirt was sewn into the bodice which was cut straight across the waist. It was worn predominately with an overdress.

During the Elizabethan time period they evolved to two pieces - a bodice and gathered skirt. This was the precursor to the "pair of bodies" or corset.

Kirtles were generally made of one color i.e., both bodice and skirt were the same, such as you see in the picture to the right Some had short sleeves that were sewn into the bodice, others were detachable and laced on.

In England, the most predominant color for kirtles was red.

For the upper classes, kirtles were made of finer fabrics and were stayed with reeds. Metal stays were NOT invented until the 19th Century. For the lower classes, they were not stayed (boned). The bodice portion was fashioned from multiple layers of linen with wool or canvas between the outer and inner linings.

Join me on Patreon for the first of my online costume courses. 

- Christine